2bit Astrophotography with the Game Boy Camera(home.strw.leidenuniv.nl) |
2bit Astrophotography with the Game Boy Camera(home.strw.leidenuniv.nl) |
https://people.ece.cornell.edu/land/courses/ece4760/FinalPro...
Curiously, the camera has hardware edge detection which might have helped with very early machine vision.
There should be some silly way of doing this with just a single photo diode and a speaker to provide one axis of motion and to let the Earth's rotation provide the other axis.
Or alternatively, what's a way to transform high-res images to look like that?
Kinda difficult to buy crappy low resolution detectors these days because nobody makes them and you'd need to build the readout electronics yourself. You might as well just use a decent detector and make it look bad.
I wonder, this may be silly, but could you not potentially get a slightly higher resolution image, if you just created a pixel for every sensel. Than if you were to apply the demosaicing algorithm then convert to grayscale.
Like so: http://imgur.com/a/YpHzZ
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dither#Algorithms
Floyd-Steinberg is a reasonable first choice if you want to implement one. There's pseudocode on its Wikipedia page too: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floyd%E2%80%93Steinberg_dither...
I'd be very curious to see what happens if you do exposure stacking-- in principle, you could get a lot more bit depth!
I guess instead of making an HDR image from SDR images you'd be making an SDR image from LDR images. :-)
Next step, find the Gameboy Printer and print out your shots!
[0] ftp://ftp.casio.co.jp/pub/watch/wc/WQVLink_Manual_K.pdf
Current day smart watch (without a camera in most cases) : 24 hours to 1 week battery life using a lithium ion battery.
That's along the lines of what the Leica Monochrom promises. One drawback of doing it with a regular Bayer sensor is that the colour filters eat light, so while the number of pixels will increase significantly, the spatial resolution may not be that much better.
The performance of the Leica Monochrom is due to this - you don't get more pixels per sensor, but you get proper intensity values at each pixel. This corresponds to better effective spatial resolution in most cases. All they're doing is selling you an identical sensor and pretending it's something fancy and new...
When you buy industrial cameras, the colour and mono versions are identical, but one is filtered (they use the same detector). We use mono in industry often because image quality tends to be much better than colour, and you have a third of the bandwidth requirements (or you want to filter a specific waveband).
I just had a little play with the raw data from the Pi camera yesterday using the excellent PiCamera lib.
https://github.com/AntonioND/gbcam-rev-engineer/tree/master/...
The ADC appears to be part of the ASIC which contains most of the circuitry to interface the sensor to the GB.
Edit: I wonder if it is due to reciprocity failure with film - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_(photography) ?
I found the correction chart below on t'web [1] just now.
I recollect using 2.5x per stop over 1 second which gives slightly longer exposures than [1], but then I did tend to 'pull' the development a bit (contrast goes up), so a 2 minute metered exposure would be 2.5^7 seconds (10 minutes) instead of 2^7 seconds roughly. A 10 minute exposure on the meter corresponds to two hours and a very significant contrast hike - I recollect printing on grade 1 and grade half filter settings (multigrade paper). I only used extreme exposure times in old dark interiors e.g. churches in the UK in November or something. Inside so no need for any filters - not astro.
I'll dig a few prints out and scan them over the weekend. Nowt astounding. See if you can find a book about Edwin Smith if you are near a library with a very good photography collection.
I have a fantasy of using 10x8 film with a pinhole camera and just doing contact prints... but then I remember the darkroom days and the amount of water that got used up...
[1] http://home.earthlink.net/~kitathome/LunarLight/moonlight_ga...
No reason it couldn't be applied to regular long exposure photography using a DSLR, either.
Cheers, I'd be very curious to see your prints.
I've just had a little look on google images at some of Edwin Smith's photos, they look stunning! The light in the photos look amazing.
I still have an old Pentax K1000 film camera I think it is, I'll have to dig it out again some time :) I'd really like to get a medium format camera, but they're still not super cheap, I was looking at the Mamiya RZ67 (I'd actually like to try shooting landscape with it, which could be impractical due to the weight, but would be fun nonetheless ;).
10x8 film would be awesome to play with!
A 35mm camera on a tripod with shutter release would allow experimentation and allow you to decide about weight and carrying for hiking. I used the long exposures mainly in buildings in a city.
My images are not on Edwin Smith's level by any means, but the movement of the Sun direction over an hour does make a sort of smoothing of the light.