(Would want it off when in the fridge otherwise the battery life would get obliterated. Presumably from looking for signal but it did also sometimes die abruptly on very cold winter days.)
I was playing HoMM2 one day, saved a game and try to reload only to find out the my save file was nowhere to be found. It all went downhill from there: Files reported saved, but no longer there after reboot, other data inconsistencies. Norton Utilities for DOS didn't do anything to help and at the end my PC did not boot anymore.
It seemed like a problem with the spindles or the head. I wasn't quite sure as a kid. Desperate, I tried the only other option I could think of - dismounted the hdd and dropped it from several inches high. To my astonishment that did work and by repeating that procedure now and then, I was able to squeeze at least a month or two out of my Quantum before it finally gave up.
Edit: There's also the trick about reseating chips by warming the motherboard in the oven, or something along those lines. Never could get my parents to let me try that one out.
the idea came to me after the ibook gpu problems which i repaired with a manipulated tealight (3 flames) placing on the gpu, having the ibook upside down, and also turning it on all the time (it directly went off) until it worked for ever.
i was a broke student at that time and loved McGyver growing up when i was a kid.
I assume it had a discrete gpu in it, which caused issues with stability.
I fixed mine by putting the gpu in the oven for a few hours. Continued to work for a few months. Then i did it again, and it worked again for a few weeks. Couldnt fix it a third time though
Adam? …is there a reason your laptop is in the fridge? - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=1274907 - April 2010 (38 comments)
(Why would I do this? I found a cellphone and needed to break into it to figure out whose it was. If the guy had a new phone under the same IMEI, it would have knocked him off the network. Eventually, I found out when I finally busted into it and tracked down his identity, he had since enlisted in the Marines and there wasn't anything he probably was missing on that phone anyways)
I find it nostalgic to hear the word PowerBook in a time where you only hear MacBook
Had to wait for it to warm up closer to ambient to function normally.
Putting in the freezer would allow me to boot it and backup the data. Fridge was not enough as it was not cold enough to dissipate the heat of the device on boot.
As soon as the phone was out of the freezer it would die in about 30 seconds.
Saved all the vacation pictures this way
... because the fridge is the last place most burglars look [citation needed].
They got an impressive overclock out of it, for a few seconds. lol
Back when I'd carry an extra battery because they were swappable and was an easy way to get a 80% ish charge on the go without what was then a poor quality power bank.
I reckon across 3 boxes I did this to, I eked out a couple hundred more hours of use.
My thought was that a Raspberry pi notices the flow and triggers an Apache airflow dataset every 10 sec or so while it's still flowing. DAGs which consume that "dataset" (a misnomer in this case) will run. Flow stops, DAGs stop.
Intel MacBook Pro combined with Microsoft teams meetings does this all the time for me.
I have a gel ice pack in the frezer.
When I put it under the laptop it cools down very quickly and I can work again.
Ironically it was from a company called "Lava" so ...
Easy to brick electronics.
Ice packs on top of the routers.
I thought these were common practices all along. :-)
in order to get everything off the phone i froze it in freezer. it gave me enough time to boot it and copy everything via usb
I will be trying this if I ever experience it. I don't have computer hardware fail that often.
Try copying files, fails. Try copying files, fails. Try copying files, fails.
Put laptop / drive in fridge. Try copying files, fails. Works.
"Hey, putting it in the fridge worked!"
Nope..it worked because they kept trying. People who comment on things like components shrinking don't understand how hard drives work.
I'd expect this to be a less useful trick these days. Not sure.
Each time I would try the system would overheat and then crash. The existing (windows) system still appeared to work fine with light loads so I was pretty sure I just needed to get past the install and decided to try one more time.
It was winter at the time, I can't remember if it had snowed recently, but I think it was probably close to 40 degrees F outside. So I hooked up a wired keyboard and mouse, and then plopped the laptop outside on the deck and closed the door with only the keyboard and mouse inside. There was a window which I could see the screen through and start the install.
Sure enough with the natural winter cooling the install completed and I was able to use the laptop for a few more years.
Still, IMO a better solution is fixing the hardware. Many years ago, I had similar symptoms with an old thick HP laptop. I think I have paid something like $30 for the new fan assembly, it’s a large part which includes a fan, radiator and couple of heat pipes. The assembly connects to the motherboard with a small plug, no soldering was required. It only took half an hour (and a blob of thermal paste) to replace the part.
(Advice, prevent the fan from spinning while doing vacuum)
I mostly just installed insanely loud tornado fans myself, which were in style at the time. This was before building a quiet PC was on anyone's radar it seemed.
Or, were you fully clothed and this was in Florida or something?
(I half joke, but when it warms up to 40 F again in the Spring, in Minnesota we break out the t-shirts, if not shorts.)
Now the powerbrick for the laptop from hell was also huge and heavy (I remember the total package was over 4.5 kg, and the battery lasted 80 minutes when new, so you always needed wallpower), but it had the exact with and lenght of the exteral drive cage. So fancy me had the great idea that when I tidied up my desk putting the drive on top of the powerbrick, ofc neatly allingned with the desk edges, looked perfect.
Perfect until the drive crashed hard due to being right on top of the very hot powerbrick. All code was checked into subversion, but the 127 pages of a product manual I had been writing the last week were gone without backup.
Having come across the freezer method, I decided to give it a try. Nicely sealed in a ziplock freezer bag, I left the drive in overnight. Tried booting it up the next morning without success. Put it back in the freezer on a whim, but had to start writing the manual anew and forgot a out the drive.
I came across the drive again while fetching some peas from the freezer a few weeks later. Gave it another try, and lo and behold, it worked!
Learned my lesson about excess heat on drives and no nightly backups though, so never needed this procedure again.
Of course this wasn’t very good for electronic devices and hence every console I bought died with a year of over heating.
For my PS2 I managed to extend the lifetime by placing big blocks of ice in a tray underneath it and the console sitting on top on a rack to avoid contact.
I had to replace the ice every hour but the system worked well enough till the console died eventually of water damage.
Thanks for reminding me of those good old days :-)
If I were smarter I probably would have just disassembled the NES and cleaned it but I was a dumb kid at the time so I just lived with it.
That's so sad!
(I also learned that the Surface Book has a dedicated “I have shut down because I overheated and must cool down before I will start up again” screen (an illustration of a thermometer), which I wouldn’t expect most computers to have, though I think I’ve only caused thermal shutdown one other time; during Hyderabad summer, recording in the late afternoon in an upper room, the ambient temperature got as high as 45°C, and there wasn’t enough thermal headroom for throttling to save it, so it needed extra makeshift external heatsinks. I quoted 25–35°C in the first paragraph because I was doing the actual editing overnight when it was somewhat cooler.)
Preferably in a zip lock vacuum bag and left over night.
This is a 17 year old article, but I'm a little skeptical that 10 minutes in the fridge whilst still in the laptop would have made much difference. Probably the forced reboot did just as much.
On the other end of the heat spectrum, there's baking a motherboard to reflow the solder: https://www.reddit.com/r/talesfromtechsupport/comments/6dygu...
If you're reading this Adam, they never got back to me on the W2. I ended up having to call the corporate headquarters.
I guess there is some circuit that determines if the screen comes on or not, but if it's already on, it won't switch it off, so he just disabled auto-lock and avoided the lock button all day.
My next question was how he figured it out. He lives in a cold climate area and his phone screen would consistently work whenever he walked to the store, and consistently not work when he was at home. Eventually he realized it was the temperature that made it work. I've seen stuff about computers in the freezer, etc, but there's something funnier about needing a quick freeze and it's good until you lock it again.
Fair enough! I put it in the fridge and ran the installation from there. It concluded without issues and the laptop was MUCH faster than with a "normal" Linux distro. (I don't think this kind of big performance difference holds up on modern machines though).
So you need to worry about condensation, when you take the equipment out of the fridge at the end.
(Where I live now, our dew point is typically at 24C throughout the day. So anything at or below that temperature collects water. That's about 75F.)
Do you mean one that ships binaries, or perhaps one that also enables a GUI by default?
Because I have a M1 max macbook pro, and it never gets hot ever. It also never really makes any noise.
My main game is cities skylines and civ 6. Don't know if those are not that intense since they are quite some years old. But I dont need to resort to crazy stuff like your comment.
Still love the thing, so small, light and convenient while traveling. The few days it is hot here I can run another fan :-)
- HP laserprinter motherboards, 2 of them, one just a few days out of warranty. After a few minutes in the oven they went on to work for years and might still do so for all I know.
- HP JetDirect cards, 3 of them. All worked fine after baking, one of them needed a second bake after about a year. One of those is still in use, the other 2 got fried by lightning strikes - that was before I installed a surge protector in front of the fuse box.
- HP DV6000 motherboard, it worked for a number of years after that and probably still does, the LCD display eventually died which was the end for that piece of plasticky garbage
Notice a trend? HP seems to have had problems during the introduction of the RoHS directive [1].
- Asus something-or-other laptop motherboard, still works, one of the SoDIMMs died which left it with only 2 GB and it got retired
- PSU board for a 24" Hyundai monitor, still works and is hooked up as second monitor to the...
- Apple "Late 2009 27" iMac" graphics card, still works after the first bake, I'm using that machine (running Debian) as my main workstation.
The oven and the BGA reworkstation have saved a lot of equipment from early retirement, both at places I worked as well as here. I just repaired the PSU board for a HP (again HP...) 2910ag switch even though I could have swapped it on warranty because replacing a transistor and resistor is much quicker than going through the motions of a warranty replacement and to be honest also just because I can and to be even more honest because I only found out about the 100 year warranty on these switches after I had already fixed it...
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Restriction_of_Hazardous_Subst...
It wasn't just them. I got an old Sony PVM-8044Q from an auction a year or two ago that was stuck displaying black and white on one of its inputs. Apparently a known[0] problem. I took off the case and located the general area of the PCB said to have issues and reflowed the solder of a few points with my iron. Color worked after that!
I sometimes idly wonder about harvesting the heat from various components, like we're Apollo astronauts getting every last smidgen of efficiency from our craft. In my daydream, I have wall sockets for dumping heat back into the house from, for example, the fridge, or the excess heat from the oven. I know it's not at all practical, but the idea of a hyper-efficient home is deeply appealing to me :)
Anyway, I got asked if I could fix a Macbook that was turning itself off. Sure, that's probably just performing the firmware update. But when I got the Macbook, it turned off just moments after starting OSX.
I put it in the freezer for 20 minutes and tried booting it again, yup, this time it took longer before it would turn itself off. I put it back in the freezer for a few hours. Booted it, started the firmware update, praying that it wouldn't turn itself off. Everything went successful and after that the laptop worked perfectly!
Although it was the size of a fridge itself.
However, it's when you take your cold laptop out of the fridge that it may get problems with moisture. If your laptop is colder than the dew point of the air, then the moisture will condense on it. To solve that, put the laptop into a sealed plastic bag while it warms up to stop the moist air getting to it (although this may be incompatible with actually running the laptop).
It actually worked after but it was pure luck I think.
Another time I did it with a graphics card that had been overclocked and definitely was having some board issues, took it apart and did the same, it seemed to reseat the solder and it was working fine for a few months after but obviously none of these are long term solutions, but it’s interesting the major impact temperatures will have on your hardware!
This is why I want to eventually get MiniWare MHP30M Mini Hot Plate
Also sucessfully rescued some old NVidia card with baking oven around that time…
If I needed to shut down I’d need to repeat this overheating process again.
Laptop still works to this day though I had a guy in the UK install a new dGPU with leaded solder.
Double pro tip (I've done this): Forget the freezer. Put the drive a bag, with cables hanging out. Then immerse the drive/bag in a bucket of ice water. That keeps it cool even while being used. Just be careful to keep the cables away from the water. Last time I did this I used a garbage bag large enough that I didn't need to seal anything.
Once I worked in a small office and we used ancient but silent servers and we needed new ones. We had a rack in one of the rooms, so without thinking I bought two new rack servers. Worst decision ever.
They were screaming loud. You could hear them in all the offices. Temperature in that room went up to 45°C. In the end we could store them somewhere in a closet and ignore the noise.
I used to think the R620s being bizarrely quiet was because homelab loads are understandably small, but then one day I got well over half the cores to 100% sustained doing something, and it didn't get any louder. I know they _can_ get loud, because at boot the fans go to 100%.
This hurts just reading it. How'd it go in the end?
This was back when opening the drive itself up to figure out what was wrong was still reasonably unlikely to make things worse (I know that first hand from having "kickstarted" my own drive every morning for months while saving up for a new one by opening it up and nudging the platter)
On the topic of reflowing in your home oven.. **DONT**!!!!! Thats how you get metal poisoning or other non fun diseases. If you plan on reflowing, use an oven that can go to the scrap yard after, or that will be dedicated solely to reflow. Reflowing can cause vaporization of metals in the solder and the chemicals from flux, etc, and thats just not fun to eat.
However, I have learned in the meantime that lead-free solder requires temperatures much higher than achieved by baking PCBs in a literal kitchen oven.
Is there an explanation why this method is nevertheless so popular (maybe even successfull)?
I was playing Mount & Blade back then, but noticed that the polygons would glitch out (e.g. vertices in random locations instead of where they should have been, like stretched out 3D models), shortly after which there would be screen artifacts (random colored pixels) and it would all freeze. After that, the PC would fail to boot.
I took the GPU out, propped it up on some tin foil balls, put it into the oven on over 210 C for a while and after that it would start working again. Seems like something was wrong with the card though, because eventually the temperatures would get to 90-100 C and it would crash, but until that point I put it in the oven like 3-4 times and it seemed to work for a little bit every single time.
After that I replaced it with a GTX 650, which still runs to this day in a now friend's computer.
The PS3 issue described in the video was more specific to it, but similar in it's nature.
TLDR from my very imperfect memory: The whole board-solder-chip sandwich expands at different rates due to heat, so internal stress and cracks develop in solder joints, which makes them fail. Baking PCB in an oven does something like making the crack close a bit, so that the solder joint works again.
Problem is, neither the crack, nor the internal stress that has been built up is gone, so the solution actually doesn't last.
I can say from experiencing, 20 mins in the freezer for a bare 3.5 or 2.5 HDD would give about 5 mins of "quick, find important stuff" time...
>_last ditch method for pulling files off a dying HDD_ Before pulling it apart and and putting the platters in an identical donor drive. (Dam IBM DEATHSTAR drives back in the day!)
Well that's just pulled up a few traumas I'd forgot I'd buried. Gawd, that repeated "race against time" of that 5 minutes when it's working. Knowing that every time you do the freezer/recover cycle, it's closer to straight-up never working again.
That written, temperature may still have been quite important (i.e., reboot alone wouldn't help). Particularly with a device containing something like spinning platters (as well as potentially extra heat generation associated with certain failure modes), and the additional factor of laptop heat load trade-offs, ... simply having the laptop off for some minutes might have been essential. In fact, the writer notes that transfer stopped during the first attempt to retrieve the data (after 10 minutes in fridge), hence a second round of 20 minutes was carried out after which the remaining data was retrieved.
The fact that that second pause was 20 minutes AND was carried out in a fridge may have had little to no role in success the second time. To me, that's something like a 50-50 odds event ... particularly with this kind of infrequent (for an individual, hopefully) 'high-terror' n=1 event / 'data'.** It may have primarily been the difference between having transferred other files prior to transferring that (last? not checking that detail) file vs. not.
* Newton said proportional to temperature difference, but that's a rather rough guide in general for this sort of scenario - even with just basic details missing here
** I.e., where most people aren't too interested in carrying out any kind of more detailed post-mortem ... most are much more interested in leaving the terror part behind.
Edit: OTOH, one should not discount the power of belief out-of-hand - i.e., 'externum-placebo' or something to that effect, if you please (my verbum fabulists will know). As a certain purveyor of cheap movie-branded trinkets once said in response to the soft and breathless exclamation of "I don't believe it!": "That ... is why you fail."
(Though I may be mixing up my little Gs from movies ...)
In any case, the fridge may have had more of an effect than my crudely rational analysis above suggests. {In any case}^2, this entirely unnecessary but necessary addendum will conclude with - ha ha, but, also, serious.
This box wasnt completely self assembled in the sense the CPU was already mounted on the motherboard. Redoing the heat sink with thermal paste fixed the problem, mostly.
Reallyt didn't think it would work. And when it acctually did, I was sure it would only be a temporary solution. Much to my surprise, it's still going strong today (mostly used as an Octoprint server for my 3d printer.)
Otherwise you would have really had to get a dedicated oven to do that reflowing. Or lead all over your oven.
I'd worked in a warranty depot and had some experience with the tear down by then.
The reflow didn't work for us, but we did manage to make one of the two functional again.
It's just that for recent distributions, if you have a reasonably common and modern CPU, you already get most of the optimizations you need in the pre-compiled packages.
I have it setup that way because there are no motherboard options for my CPU which allow for sufficient spacing between two triple slot GPUs to provide adequate airflow.
Plus, in the winter, you get "free" heating by running the machine completely indoors. Not actually free of course, but free as a side-effect of using the machine for other tasks. Had a friend who tried splitting his electrical service off into a cheaper heat-rate branch to run his bitcoin mining rigs and claimed they were the same as a space heater. I don't think the power company bought it.
This combined with my roughly 4 month itch to rearrange my office made it seem like much more of a pain in the ass than it was worth to ever actually do.
Marble ground down is even in toothpaste..
"Pro tip:" Do not direct the output of a strong air stream (e.g. the kind used for automotive work) at the fan as it can de-blade the fan.
Disconnect the fan cable from the socket so that the motor doesn't send pulses of energy back into your laptop. It probably won't harm it, but better safe than sorry.
An example of something better to use is 3-In-One Multipurpose or Motor Oil.
Another FYI is that oils break down grease, which is found in bearings (WD-40 aggressively so), so it’s not generally desirable to apply oil to bearings, unless it’s already having issues and you just need some additional life out of it.
In fact, for bearings which need grease, WD-40 can remove the very thing that is keeping the bearings from wearing out!
If the fan is very old and no longer works properly, it just needs to be replaced.
Sometimes it is really complicated replacing them with a danger of damaging stuff, if you have no routine. Then using something to spray is easier to fix it for some time. It helped in my cases, even though I will definitely try something else next time ..
https://forum.arduino.cc/t/is-a-flyback-diode-built-into-lap...
"You will find those fans are brushless DC fans, they are controlled by an inbuilt driver circuit and as such do not need a flyback diode."
What makes you think they're an authority?
Brushless motor still have fly back voltage that has to be clamped. You may not need to install a diode in the fan, but I can guarantee you that this "inbuilt driver circuit" has such a diode.
And if you read the linked thread a bit more you'd see where they test it and it does produce -100V at shutdown. If there wasn't a flyback diodes it'd be burning out ic's left and right
Its on you to provide evidence of your claim, not on me to disprove your unfounded claim.