Fast guide:
* Be sure to turn off any in camera stabilization in Sony cameras.
* Be sure to take the added crop into account when composing.
* The faster shutter speed, the better. Forget about 1/50 for 25p. There will be the most horrible artifacts. For 25p, use 1/100 or preferably use 1/200. For 50p, use 1/200 or preferably 1/400 etc.
(My ignorance,) is motion blur no longer a thing in modern digital?
(I'm also confused: 1/50 is the shutter speed and 25p the frame rate?)
I also expect purely gyroscopic approach to be much lighter compute-wise.
For context, the webpage: https://www.qtav.org/blog/new-sdk.html
The result was pretty good and it was super easy to do it.
At any rate if gyroflow obsoletes an actual gimbal it’s pretty close to perfect.
Kind of a tangent: One of the remarkable things to me about the "Dykstra flex" cameras developed for Star Wars was that the dolly/stepper-motors moved the camera while the shutter was open giving those fly-by shots full motion blur. Freeze any frame where there is a space battle and it is obvious.
That small detail was not small at all in selling the effects of the film.
But one of the effects guys joked that some team had borrowed the camera for some effects they were doing for a TV show or film—and they used Dykstra-flex in sort of a "stop motion" manner. He was dumbfounded why someone would move the camera, pause to expose a frame, move again to the next location, pause to expose. Just walking away, leaving motion-blur on the table…
For video ideally you want both the shutter speed and aperture fixed since having the depth of field fluctuate in the video isn't ideal either.
I once thought similarly to you are thinking now. I quickly gave that up for the specific type of shooting discussed. You quickly realize that the software in post for stitching is really good at what it does.