Whirlpool Washer Transmission Repair (2007)(k0lee.com) |
Whirlpool Washer Transmission Repair (2007)(k0lee.com) |
https://web.archive.org/web/20260117044133/https://k0lee.com...
(As an aside: I don't throw rocks at your house.)
This will be more of a factor to any degree that US appliances tend to be larger than their European counter-parts (and my WAG is that's the case). In part because in the US, front loaders are a more premium product.
[edit: side note -- issues with fitment are a substantial problem for retailers, returns are expensive].
I've used a front-loader now for years and the only thing I really miss from my top-loader is that I could just leave the lid open for it to dry out. The door of the front-loader is perennially in the way if you leave it wide open, so we have to prop it open to prevent mildew.
Leaving the lid wide open was a pretty great way of living life. I'd shed my clothes to take a shower and just toss them directly into the washing machine. When it came time to start a load it was a simple matter to put some soap in and push start.
I’ve adapted over the last decade l-and-a-half and learned to keep the door open, but the unease is everpresent that a cat might decide to nap in the washing machine on a particular day…
I will note that when I forget and leave clothes after a wash for more than a day, they do get a slight mildew smell. The same thing happens with the top loader at my in-laws. Another wash gets rid of it in both cases.
[1] There are multiple YouTube videos of these machines being completely disassembled very quickly, as well as repairs.
Unfortunately, I found Maytag did not sell any separate parts for the transmission, only the whole transmission, for somewhere around 300$, which was more than the 25-ish years old washer was worth to me. People frequently bash manufacturers for using plastic parts like, as a mechanical engineer, I think there may be valid reasons for the design choice, but knowing the part is subject to wear, it should absolutely be made available as a spare.
I ended buying a new washer, from a very limited selection of models that were available in the summer of 2020 shortage of just about everything. I gave away the old one for free, the guy who picked it up needed the motor to repair another machine, I hope he was able to use the parts to keep it running for a long time.
One thing with the newer models, especially Samsungs and the like, is they started using potting compounds to cover their circuit boards (within the plastic casing!), making simple fixes like replacing a voltage regulator or a capacitor essentially impossible. Yes, you can dig through the thing, but you're likely to slice through a trace if you don't slice your hand first. I unfortunately have a stack of these and I don't know what to do with them. [1]
Slightly older models, mid to late 2010s and earlier, are often easier to deal with because their circuitry is based more on simple analog controls for which a replacement part is not only widely available, but is cheap and can sometimes be improvised if needed, than on digital boards. I'm thinking of fridges which use a rheostat for the thermostat control. If one was so inclined and could absolutely not find a replacement, a bespoke set of resistors with a clip to choose termination point could be used instead.
If someone does want to get into this sort of thing, get something that already has a service manual + plenty of youtube videos. "Spare Parts" companies have tons of videos on how to do things, but they usually stop at probing and debugging circuit boards. You have service manuals that -do- contain, on the rare occasion, the schematics. But it's best to go with appliances that have incredibly simple, analog and discrete component systems rather than a plethora of digital ICs and processors.
As this blog post plainly mentions, the parts themselves often cost more than the appliance is worth. I have a box full of carbon brushes and ball bearings when I need to pull out a washer machine motor. A new motor is the cost of the machine, whereas the brushes, even if they are not OEM, work just fine for a few dollars and let the machine work for another one to two years under heavy daily use.
[1] Highly unlikely here, maybe in China, there could develop a second-hand black market where de-potted control boards are highly sought after due to their repairability, but it's a cyberpunk kind of dream at this point.
Being able to repair my Sears Kenmore 80 Series washing machine from the late 90s has definitely saved me money. I've made exactly two repairs in the last 15 years, each costing me less than $50 dollars in parts, neither taking more than two hours to complete, and both saving me from having to buy a new machine. If that's not money-saving, then I don't know what is!
An example is bike repair. If something breaks, getting it fixed would mean driving it to the shop and back again. Doing it on my own terms and schedule, I can fix it at night, often in a few minutes. If it needs a part, I ride a spare bike until the part arrives.
I decide on a case by case basis. I don't change the oil in my car because I can drop it off on my way to work, and in that case, I am getting paid while the car is being serviced. Also, some kinds of work involve more tools and space than I want to own. And mess.
The home furnace, in the middle of winter while my elderly parents are vising... yeah call the guy.
So you're paying for a new transmission, plus labor and service call fee. This easily could exceed the value of the washer, and certainly would have many people thinking "Eh, it's 15 years old, I'll just replace the whole washer."
"More than a day?" It's about 3 hours for me. If I leave it more than a day, I need to run a load with bleach to get rid of the smell. Maybe I just have a terrible front-loader.
I don't think I'd ever pick a top loader still, but front loading machines do seem to fail in more annoying ways.
Front loaders can go into kitchens which is usually where washing machine is located. They can be ‘built into’ cupboards etc.
Mines in my garage and I have a separate drier which sits on top of the washing machine..
So it’s probably largely space and location concerns.
I will note that the locking mechanism on my LG is quite strong. I tried to get past the safety lock (for high-temp washes) but couldn't get in. And in the case of catastrophic failure, you'll have much less water (and weight) to deal with vs the top load.
No
with less wear and tear on your clothes
Yes, but then they're still dirtier.
using less water
Yes
In other words, they're so gentle they barely clean lightly-soiled clothes, and that's why they also use much less water; forget about heavy soiling or thicker textiles. For true cleaning, you need a top-loader that submerges them in detergent water and actually forces it through the materials with an agitator.
Front loaders use less water and with that less energy (which mostly goes into heating water), are less likely to tear clothes, have higher spin cycle speeds (1400 to 1600 rpm vs. 600-800 for top loaders) and can be (and often are) stacked.
Why would anyone want a top loader? What is the advantage other than the supposedly greater ease of loading which is negated by putting the front loader on a pedestal? I see no advantages, only disadvantages. It is not as if we never had the choice between these types as I remember them from the laundromat some 55 years ago. They were phased out, most likely for the reasons stated above.
Whirlpool makes them by combining washer assemblies from Clyde, Ohio and dryer assemblers from Marion, Ohio.
(It's not necessarily the most convenient way to do things, but it is also not a fiction.)
[1]: https://www.whirlpool.com/laundry/laundry-sets/stacked-laund... [scroll down]
But my understanding is that top-loaders are always inefficient: they have to use a lot more water, because the clothes have to be submerged, and thus they also have to use a lot more energy to heat it.
If you wash with cold cycle, efficiency is just a matter of water volume…and most detergents work well in cold water.
and thus they also have to use a lot more energy to heat it.
Most if not all top-loaders don't heat the water.
> Most if not all top-loaders don't heat the water.
That's a bit pedantic, since on warm and hot cycles the water-heater will use energy to heat the water.
With top-loaders, you don’t even have to pause, the lid is always open; and the water stays inside, obviously.